Every season has its unexpected trend—this summer, balloon dresses are winning over our fashion-loving hearts. Puffy balloon dresses and skirts were already among the most popular styles back in the 2000s. Just hearing the name brings images of that distinctive silhouette to mind for fashion enthusiasts. Is that true for you, too?
What makes a balloon dress special?
You can recognize a balloon dress by the special construction technique used at the hem. The gathers make the slightly flared skirt appear puffed out, giving it the look of a balloon. While the skirt always has a voluminous silhouette, the top can be form-fitting or loose-fitting, flowing seamlessly into the skirt. A-line dresses can also feature a balloon cut. Balloon dresses come in mini, midi, and maxi lengths.
Balloon Dress Features at a Glance
A voluminous, rounded silhouette at the bottom of the dress.
Precise cutting and darts that allow the dress to puff out on its own like a balloon.
Or: Gathered or flush hem—the hem of the dress is gathered and attached either to an inner skirt or a ribbon.
Use of lightweight but malleable fabrics (tulle, taffeta, silk, viscose, etc.).
An impression of playfulness and extravagance.
The History of Voluminous Design
The origins of “round, puffy” skirts and skirt panels date back to the 1950s, a decade marked by a new femininity and a resurgence of elegance. After the austere war years, life returned to normal. Designers discovered a passion for creatively shaping the silhouette. Pierre Balmain and, later, Cristóbal Balenciaga experimented with voluminous, sculptural forms that stood in contrast to the tight-waisted cut. The Spaniard Balenciaga ultimately perfected the balloon-like silhouette. He presented dresses whose hems were designed using sophisticated cutting techniques and linings so that the skirts gave the impression of being filled with air.
Sunny yellow with volume: the balloon dress with short sleeves and a rounded hem—the most beautiful dress style of the summer @KI-Illustration
Voluminous gowns made their first major comeback in the ’80s. They fit perfectly into the overall trend of exaggerated and dramatic proportions, featuring shoulder pads, puffed sleeves, and bold silhouettes. Designers such as Christian Lacroix and Vivienne Westwood embraced the balloon style—often in bright or neon colors and paired with opulent fabrics. Balloon dresses were also among the popular fashion trends in the 2000s and were most often reimagined as elegant evening gowns made of shimmering fabrics.
Now, balloon dresses are making a comeback on the runways of Loewe, Christian Siriano, and Celine. Designer brands like Comme des Garçons and Molly Goddard are working with oversized, puffy silhouettes, though often interpreted in completely different ways. Even Zara and & Other Stories are featuring dresses with voluminous skirts.
Iconic Balloon Dresses
- Pierre Cardin – "Bubble Dress" (1954)
- Cristóbal Balenciaga – “Balloon Dress” (1957)
- Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) – “Lumps and Bumps” Collection (1997)
- Valentino – Balloon Dresses from the 2018 Haute Couture Collection
Here's how to style your favorite balloon dress
The balloon dress isn't just a fashion statement of femininity and style that feels light and airy—it also conceals fuller thighs and wider hips. Plus, with its flowing, body-hugging cut, you'll never have to suck in your stomach again.
Since the dress's puffy silhouette makes a statement all on its own, you don't need many extras to complete the look. Simple accessories are usually a good idea, but that always depends on the occasion and your personal taste.
Discover stylish balloon dresses
Which jacket is right for me?
- Create balanced proportions by pairing a blazer with shoulder pads with a balloon dress.
- Create a style contrast with an edgy leather jacket or an androgynous suit vest.
- If you like, you can pair a short blazer with a dress—for an overall dramatic silhouette.
And what about the shoes?
- In the evening, sparkling, disco-inspired platform sandals look fabulous with your balloon dress.
- During the day, you can accessorize your outfit with mules, fancy flats—such as Mary Janes, ballerinas, clogs, loafers, or flat strappy sandals.
- Sneakers are perfect for a casual, everyday look.
Accessories complete the look
- Choose a subtle wicker or beaded bag, or a smaller clutch, to complete the look.
- Avoid bags that are too "bulky."
- Go for delicate, minimalist jewelry, such as dainty necklaces or bangles.
Balloon dresses aren't just beautiful in black —they also lift your spirits in rich summer hues like yellow, orange, or green, in pastel shades, or with floral patterns. And they add a touch of summery flair. Pair them with a loose bun or a ponytail and enjoy the relaxed elegance of your outfit.
Dance your way through the summer with a light step in your balloon dress. Easy is the new cool.
Christine Schmitz
My love for fashion and communication led me to Ana Alcazar—having cut my teeth as a copywriter and concept developer in traditional advertising, I’ve been writing for our Munich-based designer label for over 10 years. On the editorial team, I’m responsible for all corporate topics, and I also focus on current trends and my passion: gender equality.
Between Image and History
Sometimes a story needs more than a photo can convey. That’s why some of the images in this article were created using artificial intelligence (AI)—curated, inspiring, and always in the spirit of “Wear your Story.” The AI-generated images are clearly labeled next to each photo.
